Friday, July 27, 2012
Sunny Mobile
Thursday, June 21, 2012
Avengers, Assemble! Part 1
So I've been on a huge Avengers kick here over the last two months. This was bound to happen.
These are the Hulk themed wrist warmers.
I even put little little knuckles on them.
Tuesday, May 29, 2012
I'm done!(EDIT)
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| Top of the hand |
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| Palm of the hand |
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| Spiderman pose to show that the repulser is a pocket! |
Thursday, May 24, 2012
I Am Iron Man(WIP, anyway)
Not a project I can share the pattern for(using one of Twinkie Chan's as the base is why), but I thought I'd share a few pics of what I'm working on at the moment all the same.
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| Side 1 WIP |
It's a double set of Iron Man Wrist Warmers! Inspired by a friend wanting them, a love of Marvel comics, and a picture of a pair already made, I set about making these. I was only going to make one pair, but as I was making the first wrist cuff, I said "damn it, I want these too!" So, I'm making two pairs.
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| side 2 WIP
Wish me luck on this somewhat crazy project!
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Tuesday, May 1, 2012
Stripped Dice Bag
More pattern spamming. Sorry!
Stripped Dice Bag
Supplies
WW yarn in a Main Color(MC), and 2 Contrasting Colors(CC1 + CC2)
G hook
Tapestry needle to weave in ends
Bag
With MC and G hook:
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3 Sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc around (18)
Rnd 4: Sc in next 2 sc, 2sc in next sc around (24) In last sc of rnd, change to CC1.
Rnd 5: Sc in next 3 sc, 2sc in next sc around (30)
Rnd 6: Sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc around (36) In last sc of rnd, change to MC.
Rnd 7: Sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next sc around (42)
Rnd 8: Sc in next 6 sc, 2sc in next sc around (48)
Rnd 9: Sc in next 7 sc, 2sc in next sc around (54)
Rnd 10: Sc in each sc around (54) In last sc of rnd, change to CC1.
Rnd 11 - 12: Sc in each sc around (54) In last sc aof rnd, change to MC.
Rnd 13 - 14: Sc in each sc around (54)
Rnd 15: Sc in next 7 sc, dec over 2sc around (48)
Rnd 16: Sc in each sc around (48) In last sc of rnd, change to CC1.
Rnd 17 - 18: Sc in each sc around (48) In last sc of rnd, change to MC.
Rnd 19: Sc in each sc around (48)
Rnd 20: Sc in next 6 sc, dec over 2sc around (42)
Rnd 21 - 22: Sc in each sc around (42) In last sc of rnd, change to CC1.
Rnd 23: Sc in each sc around (42)
Rnd 24: Sc in next 5 sc, dec over 2sc around (36) In either last dec or first sc of next rnd, change to MC.
Rnd 25 - 28: Sc in each sc around (36). In last sc of rnd 28, change to CC1.
Rnd 29: Sc in each sc around (36)
Rnd 30: Ch 3, dc in next sc and in each sc around. Sc in 3rd ch of ch 3 (36)
Rnd 31: Sc in the top of each dc around (36). At the end of rnd, slst to first sc, F/O, weave in ends.
Drawstring
With CC2 and G hook, ch 121. Slst in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across (120). Weave in ends. Weave your drawstring through the dc rnd of the bag so you can pull it shut. Tie a knowt in each end of drawstring, or a big fat bead if you want, to each end to keep the drawstring from coming out of the bag.
The finished bag is big enough to fit a standard deck of playing cards and lots of dice in all shapes. You can easily make a slightly bigger bag by using a H hook in place of the G hook.
Stripped Dice Bag
Supplies
WW yarn in a Main Color(MC), and 2 Contrasting Colors(CC1 + CC2)
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| The one I made for the hubby |
Tapestry needle to weave in ends
Bag
With MC and G hook:
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3 Sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc around (18)
Rnd 4: Sc in next 2 sc, 2sc in next sc around (24) In last sc of rnd, change to CC1.
Rnd 5: Sc in next 3 sc, 2sc in next sc around (30)
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| First one I made, for my brother |
Rnd 7: Sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next sc around (42)
Rnd 8: Sc in next 6 sc, 2sc in next sc around (48)
Rnd 9: Sc in next 7 sc, 2sc in next sc around (54)
Rnd 10: Sc in each sc around (54) In last sc of rnd, change to CC1.
Rnd 11 - 12: Sc in each sc around (54) In last sc aof rnd, change to MC.
Rnd 13 - 14: Sc in each sc around (54)
Rnd 15: Sc in next 7 sc, dec over 2sc around (48)
Rnd 16: Sc in each sc around (48) In last sc of rnd, change to CC1.
Rnd 17 - 18: Sc in each sc around (48) In last sc of rnd, change to MC.
Rnd 19: Sc in each sc around (48)
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| Had to make one for myself! |
Rnd 21 - 22: Sc in each sc around (42) In last sc of rnd, change to CC1.
Rnd 23: Sc in each sc around (42)
Rnd 24: Sc in next 5 sc, dec over 2sc around (36) In either last dec or first sc of next rnd, change to MC.
Rnd 25 - 28: Sc in each sc around (36). In last sc of rnd 28, change to CC1.
Rnd 29: Sc in each sc around (36)
Rnd 30: Ch 3, dc in next sc and in each sc around. Sc in 3rd ch of ch 3 (36)
Rnd 31: Sc in the top of each dc around (36). At the end of rnd, slst to first sc, F/O, weave in ends.
Drawstring
With CC2 and G hook, ch 121. Slst in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across (120). Weave in ends. Weave your drawstring through the dc rnd of the bag so you can pull it shut. Tie a knowt in each end of drawstring, or a big fat bead if you want, to each end to keep the drawstring from coming out of the bag.
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| Had to make one for my Momma, too. |
The finished bag is big enough to fit a standard deck of playing cards and lots of dice in all shapes. You can easily make a slightly bigger bag by using a H hook in place of the G hook.
Solid Dice Bag
OMG, I bet you're getting tired of me spamming patterns.
Dice Bag
Supplies
WW yarn in a Main Color(MC), and 2 Contrasting Colors(CC1 + CC2)
G hook
Tapestry needle to weave in ends
Bag
With MC and G hook:
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3 Sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc around (18)
Rnd 4: Sc in next 2 sc, 2sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 5: Sc in next 3 sc, 2sc in next sc around (30)
Rnd 6: Sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc around (36)
Rnd 7: Sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next sc around (42)
Rnd 8: Sc in next 6 sc, 2sc in next sc around (48)
Rnd 9: Sc in next 7 sc, 2sc in next sc around (54)
Rnd 10 - 14: Sc in each sc around (54)
Rnd 15: Sc in next 7 sc, dec over 2sc around (48)
Rnd 16 - 19: Sc in each sc around (48)
Rnd 20: Sc in next 6 sc, dec over 2sc around (42)
Rnd 21 - 23: Sc in each sc around (42)
Rnd 24: Sc in next 5 sc, dec over 2sc around (36)
Rnd 25 - 28: Sc in each sc around (36). In last sc of rnd 28, change to CC1.
Rnd 29: Sc in each sc around (36)
Rnd 30: Ch 3, dc in next sc and in each sc around. Sc in 3rd ch of ch 3 (36)
Rnd 31: Sc in the top of each dc around (36). At the end of rnd, slst to first sc, F/O, weave in ends.
Drawstring
With CC2 and G hook, ch 121. Slst in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across (120). Weave in ends. Weave your drawstring through the dc rnd of the bag so you can pull it shut. Tie a knowt in each end of drawstring, or a big fat bead if you want, to each end to keep the drawstring from coming out of the bag.
The finished bag is big enough to fit a standard deck of playing cards and lots of dice in all shapes. You can easily make a slightly bigger bag by using a H hook in place of the G hook.
Dice Bag
Supplies
WW yarn in a Main Color(MC), and 2 Contrasting Colors(CC1 + CC2)
G hook
Tapestry needle to weave in ends
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| Made with RHSS Sunshine Print, Black, and White |
Bag
With MC and G hook:
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3 Sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc around (18)
Rnd 4: Sc in next 2 sc, 2sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 5: Sc in next 3 sc, 2sc in next sc around (30)
Rnd 6: Sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc around (36)
Rnd 7: Sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next sc around (42)
Rnd 8: Sc in next 6 sc, 2sc in next sc around (48)
Rnd 9: Sc in next 7 sc, 2sc in next sc around (54)
Rnd 10 - 14: Sc in each sc around (54)
Rnd 15: Sc in next 7 sc, dec over 2sc around (48)
Rnd 16 - 19: Sc in each sc around (48)
Rnd 20: Sc in next 6 sc, dec over 2sc around (42)
Rnd 21 - 23: Sc in each sc around (42)
Rnd 24: Sc in next 5 sc, dec over 2sc around (36)
Rnd 25 - 28: Sc in each sc around (36). In last sc of rnd 28, change to CC1.
Rnd 29: Sc in each sc around (36)
Rnd 30: Ch 3, dc in next sc and in each sc around. Sc in 3rd ch of ch 3 (36)
Rnd 31: Sc in the top of each dc around (36). At the end of rnd, slst to first sc, F/O, weave in ends.
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| Start Drawstring in back |
With CC2 and G hook, ch 121. Slst in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across (120). Weave in ends. Weave your drawstring through the dc rnd of the bag so you can pull it shut. Tie a knowt in each end of drawstring, or a big fat bead if you want, to each end to keep the drawstring from coming out of the bag.
The finished bag is big enough to fit a standard deck of playing cards and lots of dice in all shapes. You can easily make a slightly bigger bag by using a H hook in place of the G hook.
Wednesday, April 25, 2012
Lip Balm Cover
Another re-post from my craftster(original post here.)
Lip Balm Cover/Sock Key chains
Supplies:
WW yarn in one or two of your favorite colors
F or G hook(whichever one you are more comfortable with)
Note: I wrote the pattern for if you’d be using two colors. Simply leave out the color changes and do the number of rounds listed in the pattern.The Pattern!
With first color of ww yarn and you choice of hook:
Rnd 1: Sc 5 into magic ring or ch 2 and sc 5 into the 2nd ch from hook (5)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (10)
Rnd 3: In front loops only this rnd, sc in each sc around (10)
Rnd 4: (in both loops again) Sc in each sc around (10). In last sc of rnd, change to your 2nd color.
Rnds 5 - 7: Sc in each sc around. Change back to your first color in last sc of rnd 7.
Rnds 8 - 10: Sc in each sc around. Change back to your 2nd color in last sc of rnd 10.
Rnds 11 - 13: Sc in each sc around. Change back to your first color in last sc of rnd 13.
Rnds 14 - 16: Sc in each sc around. Change back to your 2nd color in last sc of rnd 16.
Rnds 17 - 18: Sc in each sc around. F/O, weave in end.
Attach to a key chain, put a tube of lip balm in, and your done!
You can sell these IRL if you want, just credit me as the pattern writer, 'kay?
Miku Hatsune Leek
Okay, so this is just a re-post from my craftster(original post can be found here.), but I wanted to put this here too.
Supplies
WW yarn in green and white(I used Red Heart Super Saver in Spring Green and White)
Fiber-Fill
F hook
Some kind of ref picture of Miku Hatsune’s leak
Main Stalk and Body of leak
With F hook and green yarn:
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring or ch 2 and sc 6 into 2nd ch from hook. (6sc)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each sc around. (12)
Rnd 3: Sc in 1st sc, 2sc in next sc around. (18 )
Rnd 4: (in back loops only this rnd) Sc in each sc around. (18 )
Rnd 5 - 40: Sc in each sc around, stuffing as you go(18 ). In last sc of rnd 40, change to white. Continue to stuff the leak as you go, as this will save you from a headache later.
Rnd 41 - 49: Sc in each sc around(18).
Rnd 50: Sc in next 7sc, dec over 2sc X 2(16).
Rnd 51 - 69: Sc in each sc around(16).
Rnd 70: Sc in next 7sc, dec over 2sc, sc in last 7sc(15).
Rnd 71 - 86: Sc in each sc around(15).
Rnd 87: (in back loops only this rnd)Sc in 1st sc, dec over 2sc around(10).
Rnd 88: Dec over 2sc around(5). F/O, leaving a tail long enough to sew up the hole in the bottom. Doesn’t have to be perfect, but try to do so neatly, adding any last bit of stuffing that might be needed before you close it up.
2nd Stalk
With WW green yarn and F hook
Rnd 1: 6sc in magic ring or ch 2 and sc 6 in 2nd ch from hook(6).
Rnd 2: 2sc in each sc around(12).
Rnd 3: Sc in next 3sc, 2sc in next sc around(15).
Rnd 4: (in back looks only this rnd) Sc in each sc around(15).
Rnd 5 - 18: Sc in each sc around(15).
Rnd 19: Sc in next 7sc, 3sc in next sc, sc in last 7sc(17).
Rnd 20: Sc in next 8sc, 3sc in next sc, sc in last 8sc(19).
Rnd 21: Sc in next 9sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in last 9sc(20). F/O, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff firmly. Use you ref picture for placement of the 2nd stalk and sew in place.
As a side-note, you can make a Tonfa(Billy club, nightstick, police club), by crocheting all the parts of the leak with one color, and leaving rnds 19 - 21 of the 2nd stalk off. Sew the handle to the longer piece about 6 inches from the top of the “fatter” end. This would be great for cosplaying Striker from Mortal Kombat.
Life-sized Miku’s Leak Amigurumi
Supplies
WW yarn in green and white(I used Red Heart Super Saver in Spring Green and White)
Fiber-Fill
F hook
Some kind of ref picture of Miku Hatsune’s leak
Main Stalk and Body of leak
With F hook and green yarn:
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring or ch 2 and sc 6 into 2nd ch from hook. (6sc)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each sc around. (12)
Rnd 3: Sc in 1st sc, 2sc in next sc around. (18 )
Rnd 4: (in back loops only this rnd) Sc in each sc around. (18 )
Rnd 5 - 40: Sc in each sc around, stuffing as you go(18 ). In last sc of rnd 40, change to white. Continue to stuff the leak as you go, as this will save you from a headache later.
Rnd 41 - 49: Sc in each sc around(18).
Rnd 50: Sc in next 7sc, dec over 2sc X 2(16).
Rnd 51 - 69: Sc in each sc around(16).
Rnd 70: Sc in next 7sc, dec over 2sc, sc in last 7sc(15).
Rnd 71 - 86: Sc in each sc around(15).
Rnd 87: (in back loops only this rnd)Sc in 1st sc, dec over 2sc around(10).
Rnd 88: Dec over 2sc around(5). F/O, leaving a tail long enough to sew up the hole in the bottom. Doesn’t have to be perfect, but try to do so neatly, adding any last bit of stuffing that might be needed before you close it up.
2nd Stalk
With WW green yarn and F hook
Rnd 1: 6sc in magic ring or ch 2 and sc 6 in 2nd ch from hook(6).
Rnd 2: 2sc in each sc around(12).
Rnd 3: Sc in next 3sc, 2sc in next sc around(15).
Rnd 4: (in back looks only this rnd) Sc in each sc around(15).
Rnd 5 - 18: Sc in each sc around(15).
Rnd 19: Sc in next 7sc, 3sc in next sc, sc in last 7sc(17).
Rnd 20: Sc in next 8sc, 3sc in next sc, sc in last 8sc(19).
Rnd 21: Sc in next 9sc, 2sc in next sc, sc in last 9sc(20). F/O, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff firmly. Use you ref picture for placement of the 2nd stalk and sew in place.
Tuesday, April 24, 2012
Clefairy Pattern
Yes, I finally have the pattern ready(aside from alt ears, I'll add those when I get them figured out)! So, on to the pattern.
Clefairy
*Note, I always use RedHeart Super Saver yarns, so I'll use the RedHeart names for sake of reffrence.
Supplies
WW yarn in Baby Pink, Coffee, Black(for alt. ears), and White.
Felt in black, red, white, and a darker pink then your pink yarn.
G hook
Fiberfil
Body
With hook and Baby Pink;
Rnd 1: 6sc in magic ring(6)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each sc around(12)
Rnd 3: Sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc around(18)
Rnd 4: Sc in next 2 sc, 2sc in next sc around(24)
Rnd 5: Sc in next 3 sc, 2sc in next sc around(30)
Rnd 6: Sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc around(36)
Rnd 7: Sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next sc around(42)
Rnd 8: Sc in next 6 sc, 2sc in next sc around(48)
Rnd 9: Sc in next 7 sc, 2sc in next sc around(54)
Rnd 10: Sc in next 8 sc, 2sc in next sc around(60)
Rnd 11 - 23: Sc in each sc around(60)
Rnd 24: Sc in next 8 sc, dec over 2sc around(54)
Rnd 25: Sc in next 7 sc, dec over 2sc around(48)
Rnd 26: Sc in next 6 sc, dec over 2sc around(42)
Rnd 27: Sc in next 5 sc, dec over 2sc around(36)
Rnd 28: Sc in next 4 sc, dec over 2sc around(30)
Rnd 29: Sc in next 3 sc, dec over 2sc around(24)
Start stuffing the body at this point if you haven't already. Stuff firmly to get a nice ball shape.
Rnd 30: Sc in next 2 sc, dec over 2sc around(18)
Rnd 31: Sc in next sc, dec over 2sc around(12)
Rnd 32: Dec over 2sc around(6) F/O, leaving a tail to sew up the hole. Add any last stuffing that might be needed to finish out shape. Weave the tail through the last round, pull tightly to close, secure and weave in end.
Arms(make two)
With hook and Baby Pink yarn;
Rnd 1: 5sc in magic ring(5)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each sc around(10)
Rnd 3: Sc in each sc around(10)
Rnd 4: Sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc around(12)
Rnd 5: Sc in each sc around(12)
Rnd 6: Sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next sc around(14)
Rnd 7: Sc in each sc around(14)
Rnd 8: Sc in next 6 sc, 2sc in next sc around(16)
Rnd 9: Sc in each sc around(16) F/O, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff firmly, but not stiffly. Make the fingers/claws as follows.
Attach your white yarn inbetween rnds 2 and 3(first rnds of arm) and ch 3. Slst in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next, slst between rnds 1 and 2. Ch 3, slst in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next, slst between rnds 1 and 2(on other side of hand). Ch 3, slst in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next, slst between rnds 2 and 3. F/O, secure and weave in ends.
Legs(make two)
With hook and Baby Pink
Rnd 1: 4sc in magic ring(4)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each sc around(8)
Rnd 3: (in back loops only this rnd)Sc in each sc around(8)
Rnd 4: 2sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2sc in last sc(10)
Rnd 5: 2sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2sc in last sc(12)
Rnd 6: 2sc in next sc, sc in next 10 sc, 2sc in last sc(14)
Make the toes as follows:
Left toe:
With "hip"(longer point made by the drastic inc) faceing to the left(doodle A) join white yarn to the 4th free from start of back loops only rnd with a sc. Sc in that stitch again, sc in next 2 free loops, 2sc in next free loop. F/O, weave in ends.
Right toe:
With "hip" faceing to the right(doodle B), join white yarn to first free loop under hip with sc. Sc in that loop again, sc in next 2 free loops, 2sc in next free loop. F/O, weave in ends.
Ears(make two)
With hook and Coffee;
Rnd 1: 6sc in magic ring(6)
Rnd 2: Sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc(9)
Rnd 3: Sc in next 2 sc, 2sc in next sc(12)
Rnd 4: Sc in next 3 sc, 2sc in next sc(15)
Rnd 5: Sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc(18)
Rnd 6: Sc in each sc around(18). Change to Baby Pink in last sc of rnd.
Rnd 7+8: Sc in each sc around(18)
Rnd 9: Sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next sc(21) F/O, leaving long tail for sewing and stuff firmly.
Bangs(curly thing on head)
With hook and Baby Pink;
Rnd 1: 6sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each sc around(12)
Rnd 3 -18: Sc in each sc around, stuffing lightly as you go.
Rnd 19: Sc in first 6sc, ch1, turn, leaving remaining stitches un-worked.
Row 20: Sc in first 4sc, dec over last 2sc(5), ch1, turn.
Row 21: Sc in first 3sc, dec over last 2sc(4), ch1, turn.
Row 22: Sc in each sc across(4). F/O, leaving a long tail for sewing.
To make the curl, hold the piece you just made where the "flat" part is flat on your plam. Cut an extra lenght of Baby Pink and attach it between rnds 2 and 3. Roll the bang up where it will meet with the open end, stitching the piece so it will be held in place as you go.
Tail
With hook and Baby Pink;
Rnd 1: 6sc in magic ring(6)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each sc around(12)
Rnd 3: Sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc(18)
Rnd 4 - 45: Sc in each sc around, stuffing lightly as you go(18). F/O, leaving a long tail for sewing. Curl in the same way you curled the bangs, but you don't have to worry about the flat part this time.
Putting it all together
I'm crap at explaing how to put an ami together. The best I can tell you is look off the pictures, pin things in place before you start stitching, and the wings are made with the felt that is a darker pink then your yarn. I hot glued all the felt features, aside from the lines around the eyes. I painted those on with fabric paint. Same with the lines on the wings.
And that's it. Clefairy and Pokemon belong to Nintendo.
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| Taken by her new owner |
Clefairy
*Note, I always use RedHeart Super Saver yarns, so I'll use the RedHeart names for sake of reffrence.
Supplies
WW yarn in Baby Pink, Coffee, Black(for alt. ears), and White.
Felt in black, red, white, and a darker pink then your pink yarn.
G hook
Fiberfil
Body
With hook and Baby Pink;
Rnd 1: 6sc in magic ring(6)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each sc around(12)
Rnd 3: Sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc around(18)
Rnd 4: Sc in next 2 sc, 2sc in next sc around(24)
Rnd 5: Sc in next 3 sc, 2sc in next sc around(30)
Rnd 6: Sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc around(36)
Rnd 7: Sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next sc around(42)
Rnd 8: Sc in next 6 sc, 2sc in next sc around(48)
Rnd 9: Sc in next 7 sc, 2sc in next sc around(54)
Rnd 10: Sc in next 8 sc, 2sc in next sc around(60)
Rnd 11 - 23: Sc in each sc around(60)
Rnd 24: Sc in next 8 sc, dec over 2sc around(54)
Rnd 25: Sc in next 7 sc, dec over 2sc around(48)
Rnd 26: Sc in next 6 sc, dec over 2sc around(42)
Rnd 27: Sc in next 5 sc, dec over 2sc around(36)
Rnd 28: Sc in next 4 sc, dec over 2sc around(30)
Rnd 29: Sc in next 3 sc, dec over 2sc around(24)
Start stuffing the body at this point if you haven't already. Stuff firmly to get a nice ball shape.
Rnd 30: Sc in next 2 sc, dec over 2sc around(18)
Rnd 31: Sc in next sc, dec over 2sc around(12)
Rnd 32: Dec over 2sc around(6) F/O, leaving a tail to sew up the hole. Add any last stuffing that might be needed to finish out shape. Weave the tail through the last round, pull tightly to close, secure and weave in end.
Arms(make two)
With hook and Baby Pink yarn;
Rnd 1: 5sc in magic ring(5)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each sc around(10)
Rnd 3: Sc in each sc around(10)
Rnd 4: Sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc around(12)
Rnd 5: Sc in each sc around(12)
Rnd 6: Sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next sc around(14)
Rnd 7: Sc in each sc around(14)
Rnd 8: Sc in next 6 sc, 2sc in next sc around(16)
Rnd 9: Sc in each sc around(16) F/O, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff firmly, but not stiffly. Make the fingers/claws as follows.
Attach your white yarn inbetween rnds 2 and 3(first rnds of arm) and ch 3. Slst in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next, slst between rnds 1 and 2. Ch 3, slst in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next, slst between rnds 1 and 2(on other side of hand). Ch 3, slst in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next, slst between rnds 2 and 3. F/O, secure and weave in ends.
Legs(make two)
With hook and Baby Pink
Rnd 1: 4sc in magic ring(4)Rnd 2: 2sc in each sc around(8)
Rnd 3: (in back loops only this rnd)Sc in each sc around(8)
Rnd 4: 2sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2sc in last sc(10)
Rnd 5: 2sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2sc in last sc(12)
Rnd 6: 2sc in next sc, sc in next 10 sc, 2sc in last sc(14)
Make the toes as follows:
Left toe:
With "hip"(longer point made by the drastic inc) faceing to the left(doodle A) join white yarn to the 4th free from start of back loops only rnd with a sc. Sc in that stitch again, sc in next 2 free loops, 2sc in next free loop. F/O, weave in ends.
Right toe:
With "hip" faceing to the right(doodle B), join white yarn to first free loop under hip with sc. Sc in that loop again, sc in next 2 free loops, 2sc in next free loop. F/O, weave in ends.
Ears(make two)
With hook and Coffee;
Rnd 1: 6sc in magic ring(6)
Rnd 2: Sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc(9)
Rnd 3: Sc in next 2 sc, 2sc in next sc(12)
Rnd 4: Sc in next 3 sc, 2sc in next sc(15)
Rnd 5: Sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc(18)
Rnd 6: Sc in each sc around(18). Change to Baby Pink in last sc of rnd.
Rnd 7+8: Sc in each sc around(18)
Rnd 9: Sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next sc(21) F/O, leaving long tail for sewing and stuff firmly.
Bangs(curly thing on head)
With hook and Baby Pink;
Rnd 1: 6sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each sc around(12)
Rnd 3 -18: Sc in each sc around, stuffing lightly as you go.
Rnd 19: Sc in first 6sc, ch1, turn, leaving remaining stitches un-worked.
Row 20: Sc in first 4sc, dec over last 2sc(5), ch1, turn.
Row 21: Sc in first 3sc, dec over last 2sc(4), ch1, turn.
Row 22: Sc in each sc across(4). F/O, leaving a long tail for sewing.
To make the curl, hold the piece you just made where the "flat" part is flat on your plam. Cut an extra lenght of Baby Pink and attach it between rnds 2 and 3. Roll the bang up where it will meet with the open end, stitching the piece so it will be held in place as you go.
Tail
With hook and Baby Pink;
 |
| Taken by her new owner |
Rnd 1: 6sc in magic ring(6)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each sc around(12)
Rnd 3: Sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc(18)
Rnd 4 - 45: Sc in each sc around, stuffing lightly as you go(18). F/O, leaving a long tail for sewing. Curl in the same way you curled the bangs, but you don't have to worry about the flat part this time.
Putting it all together
I'm crap at explaing how to put an ami together. The best I can tell you is look off the pictures, pin things in place before you start stitching, and the wings are made with the felt that is a darker pink then your yarn. I hot glued all the felt features, aside from the lines around the eyes. I painted those on with fabric paint. Same with the lines on the wings.
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| Taken by her new owner |
And that's it. Clefairy and Pokemon belong to Nintendo.
Wednesday, April 18, 2012
SQWEEEE!
Okay, Clefairy is still in the works, I just had to post like a 12-year-old that one of my fave bloggers is following me! OMG, thankyou GundamGirlWing!
Monday, April 16, 2012
Preview of next pattern
Hey, a post with no pattern. A first for this newborn blog! I have to get the pattern typed up, but I will be having a new pattern up within the week. As for what the pattern will be....
CLEFAIRY!
Be on the look out for this cutie! I will be fixing the ears before I post.
Wednesday, April 11, 2012
Chandelure Pattern
I now bring to you, my first Pokemon Pattern! I came up with this while doing an art trade, and now I wish to share this lovely with you!
Chandelure
Supplies:
G hook
WW yarn in black, a light purple and a medium purple (I used RedHeart SuperSaver in Black, and Orichid)
Stuffing
Wire for the "arms"
Small amounts of yellow and light to medium purple felt
Hotglue gun and glue sticks
Black fabric paint
Body?(the main round part, anyhow)
With G hook and Orchid yarn;
Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8 )
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: Sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: Sc in next 2 sc, 2sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 5: Sc in next 3 sc, 2sc in next sc around (40)
Rnd 6: Sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc around (48 )
Rnd 7-13: Sc in each sc around (48 )
Rnd 14: Sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2sc around (40)
Rnd 15: Sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2sc around (32)
Rnd 16; Sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2sc around (26) Start stuffing now if you haven't already. Shape as you stuff.
Rnd 17: Sc in next sc, dec over next 2sc around (16)
Rnd 18: Dec over 2sc around (8 ). Add any last bit of stuffing that you need to finish out the shape. I like to use the flat end of my crochet hook for this, but you can use whatever works best for you(my mother-in-law likes to take extra chop sticks from chinese take-out places to use for getting the stuffing into all the nooks and cranies of a plushie). F/O once you're happy with the shape and use your yarn tail to sew up the hole in the bottom of the body. It doesn't have to be pretty, just get it shut.
Bottom Part of Body - A
With G hook and Black yarn;
Rnd 1: 8sc in magic ring (8 )
Rnd 2: 2sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: Sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4: Sc in next 2 sc, 2sc in next sc around (32)
Rnd 5: Sc in each sc around (32). Slst in first sc of next rnd, F/O, leaving a long tail.
Bottom Part of Body - B
With G hook and Black yarn;
Rnd 1: 4sc in magic ring (4)
Rnd 2: Sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc around (6)
Rnd 3: Sc in next 2 sc, 2sc in next sc around (8 )
Rnd 4: Sc in next 3 sc, 2sc in next sc around (10)
Rnd 5: Sc in next 4 sc, 2sc in next sc around (12)
Rnd 6: Sc in next 5 sc, 2sc in next sc around (14)
Rnd 7: Sc in next 6 sc, 2sc in next sc around (16)
Rnd 8: Sc in each sc around (16). F/O, leaving a long tail. Stuff enough for the cone to hold it's shape, then sew part B to part A at rnd 2 on part A(I hope that made sense). The bottom part of body should now look a bit like an icecream cone with a simi-flat top. Use the long tail from part A, stitch the bottom of body to the body over where you closed it up. Now the icecream cone has a huge scoope of icecream!
Crown thingamagig(that thing on it's head the flames come out of)
With G hook and black yarn;
Ch 20, 5 dc in 2nd ch from hook *skip 1 ch, sc in next ch, skip 1 ch, 5 dc in next ch*, repeat from * to *, sc in last ch. Slst to bottom of first dc to form a ring(you should have 5 scallops or "bumps" in the ring). F/O, leaving a long tail. Sew to top of body, using the stitches in the 2nd rnd of body as guide.
Arms/Candle holders(that's what they look like to me, anyway)
Take your wire(I used an old wire coat hanger for mine[don't do that by the way, I nearly put an eye out trying to bend the damn stuff], but any wire that's sturdy yet easy to work with will do), and cut it to roughly 24 inches long. Insert wire into base of bottom of body through rnd 7 of cone. Pull the wire through until you have equal amounts of wire on both sides of the cone(doodle A).
Bend the wire down on both sides of cone where it meets the cone(doodle B). Next, curl the wire with jewelry pliers, or have your husband/boyfriend/wife/girlfriend/partner/friend who's stronger then you do it for you(I had my husband do it, as my hands weren't strong enough to bend that old coat hanger wire). Put a nice dot of hot glue on the wire where it comes out on each side of the cone so it won't be spinning around on you(doodle C). If the curl looks too long, trim it up and curl it again until it looks right.
Next, cut 2 more pieces of wire about 4-5 inches long. Bend these into a simple horseshoe or U shape, then hot glue to your first bit of wire work(doodle D). Once again, trim the wire if it looks too long.
Cut out and glue the small flames to the ends of your horseshoes. Wrap all the wires in black yarn, securing with a dot of hot glue every 1/4 inch or so. Make sure to wrap extra around the ends of the curl and a little way up the small flames.
Head flame
I just cut two identical flame shaped peices out of the same felt I made the small flames from, hot glued them together along the long edges, stuffed just enough for the flame to hold it's shape, then hot glued it to the head inside the crown thingy. I'm sure there's a much better way to do this, this is just what I did.
Face
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| Back of Chandelure - taken by her new owner! |
Okay, the only way I can tell you how to do this last part is to use the photos and a picture of the Chandelure sprite as a guide for painting the face and back lines on. Once the paint has dried(I recomend letting it dry overnight), cut out the eyes from the yellow felt and hot glue them to the face, using the photos as a guide. That's it, you're done! Let me see what you make!
EDIT: Oct. 1, 2014 The lovely Nanette has come up with a few tweaks to my pattern that I really love, and I'm planning on making a Chandelure with these tweaks. If you'd like to use them as well, you can find them here.
Chandelure and Pokemon are copyrite Nintendo.
Wednesday, March 28, 2012
Coin Purse Pattern
Quick Coin Purse
Supplies:
WW yarn in any color (1 or 2, your choice)
G hook
Large sewing needle
Bag
With WW yarn and G hook:
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring, or ch 2 and sc 6 into 2nd ch from hook(6).
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around(12).
Rnd 3: Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around(18).
 |
| Next to a pop can for size idea |
Rnd 5: Sc even(24),
Rnd 6: Sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around(30).
Rnd 7 - 11: Sc even(30).
Rnd 12: Sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around(24).
Rnd 13 - 16: Sc even(24).
Rnd 17: Ch 3, dc in each sc around(24).
Rnd 18: Sc in the top of each dc around(24). Sl st in next 2 sc, F/O, weave in end.
Drawstring
With WW yarn(same color as bag or a different color to match with the bag), and G hook, ch 76. Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and each remainning ch(75 sl st). F/O, weave in ends. Weave the drawstirng into Rnd 17 of bag evenly. Tie a knot into both ends of the drawstirng to keep it from coming out of the bag. You can also sew a nice big bead to each end of the drawstring.
Pattern by Danielle Adams
You can sell these, just please don't do so online. That, and crediting me as the pattern writer is all I ask.
Monday, March 19, 2012
Buster How-To
Okay, so lets hop right in and start this blog with a pattern! The pattern I used to cloth this guy -
That's right, Buster! The ever changing, always being blown-up, ever-present member of the Mythbuster team!
To make your own Buster, first follow the pattern for the body of this doll - but leave out the color changes if you want. As Buster is a crash test dummy, he lacks naughty bits, so weather or not he has underpants is up to you. What he will need, though, is his jump-suit!
Buster Jump-Suit
What you need:
~ G hook
~ WW yarn in the color you want your Buster's jump-suit to be
With G hook and your yarn, ch 35
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across, ch 1, turn - 34
Row 2 - 10: Sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn - 34
Right Front
Row 11: Sc in first 6sc, leave remaining sts unworked (for armholes, back, and left front), ch 1, turn - 6
Row 12 - 17: Sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn - 6. F/O at end of row 17, leave about 12 inches of tail.
Back
Row 11: Skip next 5 unworkded sc following right front, join yarn with a sc in next sc, sc in next 11sc; leave remaining sts unworked (for armhole and left front), ch1, turn - 12.
Row 12 - 17: Sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn - 12. F/O at end of row 17, leave about 12 inches of tail.
Left Front
Row 11: Skip next 5 unworked sc following back, join yarn with sc in next sc, sc in each remaining sc across, ch 1, turn - 6
Row 12 - 17: Sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn - 6. F/O at end of row 17, leave about 12 inches of tail.
Shoulder Seam
Fold fronts over back. Beginning at side edge, sew two stitches together across each top edge of shoulder seams.
Sleeve
Row 1: Join yarn with sc in center unworked sc at one underarm, work 20 more sc evenly spaced around armhold; do not join; ch1, turn - 21
Row 2: Sc2tog, sc in next 7sc, sc2tog, sc in next 8sc, sc2tog, ch1, turn - 18
Row 3: Sc in each sc across, ch1, turn - 18
Row 4: Sc in first 8sc, sc2tog, sc in last 8sc, ch1, turn - 17
Row 5: Sc in each sc across, ch1, turn - 17
Row 6: Sc in first 7sc, sc2tog, sc in last 8sc, ch1, turn - 16
Row 7: Sc in each sc across, ch1, turn - 16. F/O, leaving about 18 inches of tail for sewing. Repeat Row 1 - 7 of sleeve on other side.
Legs
Row 1: Working on the oposite side of your start ch, join yarn to bottom of work at side with the tail from the start of ch with a sc. Work 33 more sc evenly across, ch1, turn - 34
Row 2 - 4: Sc in each sc across, ch1, turn - 34
First Leg
Row 5: Sc in first 17 sc, leave remaining sts unworked (for second leg), ch1, turn - 17
Row 6 - 24: Sc in each sc across, ch1, turn - 17. F/O, leaving a VERY long tail for sewing(about 20 - 24 inches)
Second Leg
Row 5: Join yarn with a sc in first unworked sc after first leg, sc in next 16 sc, ch1, turn - 17
Row 6 - 24: Sc in each sc across, ch1, turn - 17. F/O, leaving a VERY long tail for sewing(about 20 - 24 inches)
Assembly
Using your tails from the F/Os, stitch jump-suit onto doll by sewing the seams together. Weave in your ends.
Congrats, your Buster has some clothes! Now go blow `im up!
 |
| Buster |
To make your own Buster, first follow the pattern for the body of this doll - but leave out the color changes if you want. As Buster is a crash test dummy, he lacks naughty bits, so weather or not he has underpants is up to you. What he will need, though, is his jump-suit!
Buster Jump-Suit
What you need:
~ G hook
~ WW yarn in the color you want your Buster's jump-suit to be
With G hook and your yarn, ch 35
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across, ch 1, turn - 34
Row 2 - 10: Sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn - 34
Right Front
Row 11: Sc in first 6sc, leave remaining sts unworked (for armholes, back, and left front), ch 1, turn - 6
Row 12 - 17: Sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn - 6. F/O at end of row 17, leave about 12 inches of tail.
Back
Row 11: Skip next 5 unworkded sc following right front, join yarn with a sc in next sc, sc in next 11sc; leave remaining sts unworked (for armhole and left front), ch1, turn - 12.
Row 12 - 17: Sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn - 12. F/O at end of row 17, leave about 12 inches of tail.
Left Front
Row 11: Skip next 5 unworked sc following back, join yarn with sc in next sc, sc in each remaining sc across, ch 1, turn - 6
Row 12 - 17: Sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn - 6. F/O at end of row 17, leave about 12 inches of tail.
Shoulder Seam
Fold fronts over back. Beginning at side edge, sew two stitches together across each top edge of shoulder seams.
Sleeve
Row 1: Join yarn with sc in center unworked sc at one underarm, work 20 more sc evenly spaced around armhold; do not join; ch1, turn - 21
Row 2: Sc2tog, sc in next 7sc, sc2tog, sc in next 8sc, sc2tog, ch1, turn - 18
Row 3: Sc in each sc across, ch1, turn - 18
Row 4: Sc in first 8sc, sc2tog, sc in last 8sc, ch1, turn - 17
Row 5: Sc in each sc across, ch1, turn - 17
Row 6: Sc in first 7sc, sc2tog, sc in last 8sc, ch1, turn - 16
Row 7: Sc in each sc across, ch1, turn - 16. F/O, leaving about 18 inches of tail for sewing. Repeat Row 1 - 7 of sleeve on other side.
Legs
Row 1: Working on the oposite side of your start ch, join yarn to bottom of work at side with the tail from the start of ch with a sc. Work 33 more sc evenly across, ch1, turn - 34
Row 2 - 4: Sc in each sc across, ch1, turn - 34
First Leg
Row 5: Sc in first 17 sc, leave remaining sts unworked (for second leg), ch1, turn - 17
Row 6 - 24: Sc in each sc across, ch1, turn - 17. F/O, leaving a VERY long tail for sewing(about 20 - 24 inches)
Second Leg
Row 5: Join yarn with a sc in first unworked sc after first leg, sc in next 16 sc, ch1, turn - 17
Row 6 - 24: Sc in each sc across, ch1, turn - 17. F/O, leaving a VERY long tail for sewing(about 20 - 24 inches)
Assembly
Using your tails from the F/Os, stitch jump-suit onto doll by sewing the seams together. Weave in your ends.
Congrats, your Buster has some clothes! Now go blow `im up!
